2005 - Amazon Cruise

.
.
Nov 21-23 – On the 21st we drove from Cleburne to Demopolis, Alabama and on the 22nd we drove from Demopolis to Jacksonville, Florida. We stayed there overnight and spent the next morning with two high school friends of mine George and Mary Lou Mayor. After all these years I discovered that her name is not Mary Lou but in fact Mary Louise. Yikes, the things you learn after 44 years. On the afternoon of the 23rd we drove from JAX to Fort Lauderdale and spent the night there in a hotel close to the cruise port. Remind me to never drive down IR 95 on Thanksgiving Eve. At first things went pretty smoothly, but around Palm Beach everything stopped. We inched along for miles. A five-hour trip took 7.5 hours.

Nov 24 – Today we got up at a leisurely pace and, since we were staying at a Holiday Inn Express, went to the lobby for free breakfast.

(Travelers Note: I have become addicted to the HI Express. The rates are reasonable and the breakfast buffet is always good. They always have eggs of some sort and often a regional specialty; here it was biscuits and very good sausage gravy. They usually have mini cheese omelets and hard-boiled eggs, several types of cereal, both hot and cold, bagels and a very good cinnamon, raisin bread, and everywhere they have great cinnamon rolls. It’s quick, easy and gets you off on the road fast. If there’s one in the neighbor hood, it’s my pick.)

After breakfast we took the hotel shuttle to the cruise port and boarded the ms Prinsendam at about 12:30PM. Our room was not quite ready so we headed to the Lido for lunch. As we were sitting down to eat the announcement was made that the rooms were available so after a leisurely lunch we went down to the room to unpack. The day you get on the ship is just as hectic and uncertain as the day you get off, but at least today the cruise is still ahead of us.

This is the same ship we were on earlier this year for the World Cruise. I was hoping that some of the staff would still be here. To my surprise, there were quite a few. Some had just come back from their time off and some are leaving on vacation after this trip. It was good to see so many familiar faces. The surprising thing is that they remembered us. These guys see a lot of passengers, but the Indonesian culture puts a great deal of emphasis on warm interpersonal relationships and the dining and cabin staff of the HAL fleet are proof of that. Our cruise director is Peter Daums, the same cruise director that was on the last cruise to Europe of the old ms Noordam. We first met him as Bingo Pete on the ms Amsterdam on a Baltic/Atlantic crossing cruise. He’s very good at his job.

We have two days at sea before arriving in the Dominican Republic, so it will be a chance to relax after the days driving. We have only one clock change going out and it’s tonight, we loose an hour.

Nov 25 – A day at sea, marvelous!! Today I discovered that the reparatory cast is the same one that was on the ship for the World Cruise, with only two changes. This is very good news as they were very good. I also met our CSI tour escort, Nancy Wright. We have not traveled with her before but I expect that she will be very efficient. Last night she put a toucan cutout on our door with a “Welcome Aboard from CSI” greeting.

At the mandatory boat drill this AM I ran into Diane Sullivan. I worked with her in the 80s at the training facility. She was one of the instructor support staff. She and her husband Tom, who was the training facility coordinator met there and later married. It’s amazing how you run into people all over the world. Never fails to surprise me.

We got an invitation to dine with the spa manager and the chief medical officer this evening. Being a day at sea, tonight’s dress code is formal. Those of you who received email from my last trip should know ahead of time that I did not bring any of my formal wear. You will see me in a nice, cool navy blue suit. Last time we were near the equator it was far too hot for a tux. The only real advantage of formal nights is that you usually get to see a performance by the ship’s cast.

For much of the day we were sailing just north of Cuba. It was no more than 10 nautical miles off our starboard side. I think I spotted Fidel. You could just make out the smoke from his big stogie.

Dinner with the staff was great!! There were four other couples at the table. The lady who sat next to me was born in Bethlehem, the city right next to Allentown where I was born. We remembered a lot of the same places around town. This is getting a little spooky.

The cast show was great!! Singing, dancing, lots of pretty girls, how could you lose on that? They had a ‘Music of the 50s, 60s and 70s’ night in the Ocean Bar. The Filipino band did a good job on the old hits.

Tomorrow’s another relaxing day at sea and I’m looking forward to it.

Nov 26 – It’s cloudy with occasional rain today. The temp is about 78 so it’s not uncomfortable but there is a bit of wind, probably mostly provided by the forward motion of the ship. There’s a moderate swell that is giving the ship a very gentle motion, very restful.

We went to the Pinnacle restaurant this evening, that’s the alternative dining location. There’s a small charge, but the food is extra special. I sent some pictures home from the World Cruise so you’ve seen my favorite desert, the Grand Marnier Chocolate Volcano.

Otherwise the day was very restful and it’s a good thing as we have 5 port days in a row. I don’t mind 2 or 3 but any more than that is too many. I like to have a sea day at least every third day. We’ll be arriving in La Romana, Dominican Republic. As you probably know DR shares the Island of Hispaniola with Haiti. We will be taking a 2-hour drive into the capital city, Santo Domingo. It leaves at 8AM so breakfast will be early tomorrow.

The entertainer this evening was Jim Costan, a banjo player. Some people don’t like the instrument but I can’t stop smiling when I hear one. It’s just a joyful sound.

Nov 27 – Today we are in La Romana, Dominican Republic. La Romana is a state as well as a city, like NY, NY. It’s the state in the Dominican state that produces all the baseball players in the DR. La Romana and the next city, San Pedro de Macoris, are the home of most of the Dominicans playing today in the USA, such as Sammy Sosa. We are here on a Sunday and boys and men were playing baseball everywhere.

Our tour is taking the 90-minute drive to the capital city, Santo Domingo. It has a lot of firsts for the Americas. This is where Columbus made his first landing in the “New World”. It has the New World’s first fort, cathedral and road as well as being the first city founded here. We saw all these sights and more. Most of the buildings are made from a form of limestone that has a very craggy surface. It looks almost like coral because it is honeycombed with holes. It exhibits various colors from an orange/pink to grey. Many buildings are still standing from the 1500s and the colonial period.

We stopped at the Columbus Lighthouse (left), built in 1992 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of his landing here. There’s a sarcophagus there that contains his remains. The Spanish dispute this; they say he is buried in the Seville Cathedral. We were there in 2004 and the sarcophagus is very ornate. It’s a casket being carried by four Spanish knights, all larger than life size. It is not in dispute that Columbus was first buried in the Dominican Republic in the cathedral that bears his name. However in the 1800s the Spanish wanted him moved to Spain. The Dominicans say that the priest of the cathedral, remembering that it was Columbus’ wish to be interred in Santo Domingo, misidentified the casket that contained his remains and instead sent the one containing his son, Domingo. Forensic examination of the remains moved from the cathedral to the lighthouse in 1992 showed that the body remaining here has wounds, including a bullet in the leg, that Christopher Columbus was know to have. Further forensics are planned to settle the issue once and for all.

The lighthouse is not at all what we expect. It is a very large structure that looks like a Mayan Temple. It is built in the shape of a cross, lying down. It has 150 searchlights pointing straight up that form a cross on the clouds above at night. The rotating light, which can be seen for 150 miles at sea, also shines in the form of a cross when it hits clouds or fog. It is certainly the largest lighthouse I’ve ever seen.

The Columbus Cathedral (right) was built in 1592 and is still in use. In fact, we couldn’t go inside because mass was in process. It’s built from the local stone mainly in Gothic style, but it has elements from several other types. The stone is mostly the orange/pink type although the grey color is used on the bell tower wing and the top of the bell tower is red brick. The one feature that stuck me as odd was a Russian style two-headed eagle crest featured prominently in the center of the cathedral just above the main doors. I’m going to have to do some research on that.

Columbus’ Casa (left) is built from the grey tone stone. It was originally three stories tall but during a battle the third floor was destroyed and never rebuilt. It overlooks the harbor from a hill and is directly in front of the Spanish Plaza. The plaza area is mainly colonial era structures currently being used as restaurants and shops. They were all busy putting up Christmas decorations. All the major public buildings, including military installations, prominently featured a manger scene. Apparently they understand that public celebration of religious events is not the same as ‘adopting’ a religion. Funny how pinheaded judges can find all these esoteric ‘rights’ in our constitution that are not actually delineated, but they can’t read the plain language of the 2nd amendment that clearly allows the public to be armed. Oh, oh, here I go again.

The Ousama (no relation to Ben Laden) Fort was the first military structure in the New World. When the USA came to the Dominican Republic in 1965 to save them from a potentially terrible civil war and allowed them to reestablish the democracy that flourishes today, they used this fort as an Army Base. It also overlooks the harbor not far from Columbus’ Casa.

They mine a stone here that only exists here and in the Bahamas. They call it Lorimar. It is named for the daughter of the man who discovered it, Lori; and the sea, Mar. It’s a sky blue stone with white marbling and it’s not expensive. A little research reveals that it is actually a blue variety of Pectolite, technically a rock as it is made up of more than one mineral. It looks great set in silver. They also mine blue amber here, but it’s expensive and hard to find.

Our entertainer tonight is Bob Brizendine and he’s billed as a comic magician who’s a little insane. Could be interesting. Well, it was interesting. The magic was nice but his routine was hilarious. He’s from Tennessee and magic with a southern accent was great.

Tomorrow we’re in Ponce, Puerto Rico, second of our five ports in a row.

Nov 28 – Today we are back in the USA. Since we visited the Dominican Republic we had to clear US immigration to enter Ponce, Puerto Rico. We were here about 20 years ago and except for the addition of a few new highways, not much has changed.

Our first stop was the Tibes Taino Indian Park and Museum. There are ruins of the oldest Indian culture of the island here. They were unknown until a storm in the 1960s washed away enough dirt to expose the stone foundations of the structures. It is also a botanical garden and they have reconstructed an Indian village (left) using information from the original Spanish explorers’ journals and drawings. We spent about an hour and a half there looking at the plants and ruins.

The main tribes here were the Caribe, from which the Sea gets its name, and Arawacs (sp?) They played the same ‘ball game’ that the Mayans and Aztecs played with almost the same rules. The major difference is that losing team is not killed in this version.

Then we stopped in downtown Ponce for a little look around and shopping. The only thing that both Diana and I really remembered from Ponce was the Firehouse (right). It was built in 1883 and has always been painted in alternating red and black stripes. The central portion of the lower floor was the garage. On either side there are stairs going up to a loft, which was the fireman’s living area. The rooms on the first floor on either side were offices and the kitchen.

The Ponce Cathedral (left) was built in the colonial period and was celebrating noon mass when we arrived. It is the typical Spanish style with chapels on either end of the transept. The altar was very ornate and the sculptures of the Saints were very detailed and attractive.

After leaving Ponce we returned to the ship for some lunch and a little relaxation.

Nov 29 – Here we are in Basseterre, St. Kitts (right), aka St. Christopher. St. Kitts is part of the West Indies and together with Nevis (Knee’-vis) they are an independent country that is a member of the British Commonwealth. They are separated by a 2-mile channel know as ‘The Narrows’. We have been to St. Kitts before, on a 1990 Christmas cruise, so we decided to catch the ferry to Nevis.

The trip from Basseterre to Georgetown, Nevis (left) took about 25 minutes and it was a very pretty ride. Both islands are very green and St. Kitts is larger but Nevis has a totally overgrown volcano that is higher than any of the mountains on St. Kitts. At 3,200 feet it’s clearly the tallest mountain on either island. The caldera of the volcano is clearly defined but every inch is covered in lush green vegetation. Very beautiful.

After we landed on Nevis we boarded a Taxi and took a tour of the island. Columbus was here on his second voyage in 1493 but it was 1623 before any Europeans returned to stay. 16 people came and established tobacco plantations that were quickly profitable. The leader of this group, Sir Thomas Warner and his descendents governed the island from his plantation for more than 100 years. Some years later a French ship that was badly damaged limped in for repairs. The captain decided he liked what he saw and decided to stay.

The British and the French divided the island in half, Brits in the north and French in the south. Basseterre, the city we’re docked in was the capital of the French side. They joined forced to fight against the Carib Indians after the massacre at Bloody Point in 1626. Subsequent relations were less cordial. As their two countries fought various wars over the next 150 years they would occasionally fight each other but the introduction of sugar cane and the huge profits it brought made agriculture the major focus and not the fighting. Finally they fought in earnest and the French were successful in defeating the British in 1782. The very next year, the Treaty of Versailles returned the island to British rule. In 1983 tiny Sombrero Island joined the group and St. Kitts & Nevis was born.

Many of the buildings from the colonial era are constructed of volcanic rock. The masons cut the rock into very uniform size and the colors are wonderful, rust reds, grays, greens and light blues all blended together. Admiral Lord Nelson spent some time here and was married to Frances Herbert Nisbet under a huge Kapok tree in front of the Montpelier House on March 11, 1787. The clock in the main circus commemorates the reign of Queen Victoria.

Author’s Note: Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson is a hero of mine. I’m not sure if it’s because my middle name is Nelson or because he was such a strong, courageous, honorable man. If you like reading biographies at all, I strongly recommend you read his. He changed the course of history and sadly, died in the doing.

We also toured the Nevis Botanical Gardens. A very relaxed, compact place. In many botanical gardens, which we like to tour, you have to walk miles to see the important plants. Here they concentrated on native island plants of all types. It was great. It’s in private hands and the owners have a home on the property. It belonged to a British couple for many years but rumor has it that a couple from Pennsylvania owns it now. They only spend the winter here. There was a long ‘donkey tail’ like plant with yellow flowers (right) and another called the ‘bat flower’ (below left).

After that it was back to Georgetown for some shopping. Diana has to collect a pin of the country’s flag and we like to send ourselves a post card from each country we visit. After that is was back to the ship for a late lunch and a shower.

The entertainment for the evening was ‘Rhythm & Smooch’ (Richard & Hillary Hubbard). We have seen them before. He plays the flute and she plays the oboe. It sounds like a strange match but I have to tell you it blends very well. They use the orchestra as backup and they sound is different but very nice. They have both played in large, well-known symphony orchestras and for the royal family of England. We enjoy their style a lot.

Before the show we went to the movie, ‘Must Love Dogs’. It was a nice, romantic comedy. We both liked it. Good to see John Cusack working again and Diane Lane is cute beyond description.

Snorkeling tomorrow. It will be nice to spend a day in the water, as the last three days have been hot and humid.

Nov 30 – Today we are in France. Yikes!! The island of Martinique is a Division of France just as though it was on the European continent. Sort of like Hawaii is a state in the USA. We have been here twice before so we will be going snorkeling. The tour doesn’t leave until Noon so we got up for a leisurely breakfast and then prepared our gear for the water. We carry our own masks and snorkels. I’d just rather use my own snorkel and we have our glasses prescription ground into our dive masks, which really helps us see. The capital city is Fort de France (right).

Christopher Columbus first spotted Martinique in 1493 but he did not send a party ashore until he returned in 1502. The local Carib Indians objected to the landing but the European weapons make it possible for the landing party to drive them off. Many of the rest of the Caribs died of European diseases. No permanent settlement was established until the French came to the island in the early 1600s. Soon they had thriving sugar plantations that were operated with the involuntary assistance of West African slaves. Skirmishes were constantly breaking out with the Caribs, because the plantation owners wanted more and more land. Many were killed and eventually the few remaining Indians were banished from the island.

When Mt. Pele (in background at left) erupted in 1902 the capital city of St. Pierre was buried in burning ash. Everyone in the town was killed except the one prisoner in the jail. The underground cell of the jail kept him alive. After this the capital was move here to Fort de France.

The dive boat picked us up right at the pier so is was just a short walk from the ship. We dove at two spots. The water and air were almost the same temperature so getting in and out of the boat was not a shock. It’s not the South Pacific but it was interesting. We saw some large schools of fish. Black and yellow trigger fish, some pale blue needlefish, various dark grey and black fish I couldn’t identify. Lots of sea fans, sponges and urchins lined the rocks. The most unusual sight was a school of small (about 7-8 inch) grey and white cuttlefish swimming in formation. They look like they are flying with their longitudinal side fins waving away. The fins are almost as long as their bodies but they are very short. The look a little like ribbons attached to the sides of the body. They cycle in a wave like ripples lengthwise to propel them. The fins ripple like crazy but the cuttlefish moves pretty slowly.

At the second dive sight there was a cave with a water entrance. We swam back in as far as we could. The cave roof was lined with bats. Occasionally one would take flight making them much easier to see. The bats were the same color as the rock of the cave.

The dive boat captain was very personable and, of course, very French. He had that exact Pepe le Pew type accent that’s a lot of fun to listen to and easy to understand. After the second dive we returned to the Prinsendam, docked right in downtown Fort de France (right).

Dec 1 – Today we are in St. George’s, Grenada (right). We’ve been here before so the only thing we have to do on land is acquire Diana’s flag pin and postcards. We found both pretty quickly on a short walk around St. George’s

As usual, Christopher Columbus was here in 1498, but the hostility of the Carib Indians kept a permanent settlement away until 1650 when the French founded St. George’s. In 1885 the British, once again, took over and it was the capital of the British Windward Islands until 1958 when it became an independent country in the West Indies. It principal products are refined sugar and alcoholic beverages, mostly rum but some fruit wines. It also has a large tourist industry and many spices are grown here. There were spice and rum shops everywhere.

St. George’s is a small town with very narrow streets. Traffic is a mess all the time. We were in a new shopping plaza, still partly under construction, right next to the mini bus area (left). They mini busses were packed into a very small area where they lined up in about six rows each having about 5 to 7 busses in it. They had one entrance at the back and one exit at the front. On three sides there were little stalls selling food, mostly for immediate consumption. One man was roasting peanuts (below-right) and they smelled so good I bought 2 bags, one plain, unsalted and one honey roasted. They were great!!

I must have been offered a cab tour about 60 times and a spice necklace about 50. All the men were cab drivers and the women, spice jewelry sales reps.

Walking around town the recent hurricane damage is obvious. There were 3 churches without roofs and on one of them most of the walls were down. The only thing that didn’t look too bad was the bell tower. They were hit by several and one of them was really bad.

We are going snorkeling again so we had to get back to the ship. The trip to the water was made in a minibus, two of them. To get to the boat we had to go to the next harbor over and everything is one way here. The driver skillfully, if not quickly, maneuvered us through the narrow roads over a very steep hill to the dock.

Today we’re on a catamaran and there’s plenty of room to spread out. The ride to the dive spot was great. Right along the green shores of Grenada. The diving itself was disappointing. The water has been stirred up by waves and the visibility was less than 5 feet. Unfortunately the surge was strong and I didn’t want to take Diana anywhere near the rocks. But the water was nice and the swimming was fun. We stayed there a while and then went to a beach for some beach combing and swimming.

After that is was back to the ship for dinner. The captain, Hans Mateboer and the Hotel Manager, Kalus Reizler have invited us to the Explorer’s Lounge for cocktails this evening so we have to look presentable.

Quick shower and shave and up to the Lido for the first time for alternative dinner. We didn’t get back to the ship until 5:15 and dinner in the dining room is at 6. The Lido offers dinner that is sort of a semi-buffet. You pick up your own appetizer and salad, but you order your entrée and they bring it to your table when it’s ready. When you are finished you go and get your own desert. One advantage to the Lido is that you don’t wait for the courses so you can finish dinner in a little over a half an hour if you are in a hurry to get somewhere. Dinner in the dining room takes about an hour and a half, sometimes more. You don’t really care though because there is plenty of good conversation with most of the tablemates we’ve had. Some have become long distance friends.

I can’t remember if I mentioned it, but we got a table for 2. We usually ask for a table for 6 but this time we have the best of both worlds. There’s a table for 4 right next to us and we have all the conversational advantages of a table for 6, but we control our own fate as far as pace. Sometimes you can be seated with someone who eats so slowly that dinner can take more than 2 hours. That’s too slow!!

Big screen movie tonight is Papillion, with Dustin Hoffman and Steve McQueen. They're playing that because day after tomorrow we visit Devil's Island. In case you don't remember the story it's about the only men to ever escape from the place. But first.....a glorious day at sea. Yippee!! Haven't had one in 5 days so we're way overdue.

Dec 2 – A day at sea; I love them, Diana tolerates them. Today the weather is cloudy and rainy; a good day not to be in port. We’re closing in on the Equator so that’s to be expected. We won’t cross the Equator until after we are in the Amazon. The first part of the river runs to the southwest.

The lecturer today spoke about the relationship of the USA with the Caribbean Islands and Central America, the Caribbean Basin. He went through the history since the Monroe Doctrine up to current events. That nutcase running Venezuela at the moment thinks he’s the Castro of the 2000s. He’s using oil money to bend the policies of neighboring countries against the USA. We’ll have to see how it goes for him and us.

The ship’s cast had another show tonight. Mostly show tunes and dancing. They are very good.

Dec 3 – Today we are at Devil’s Island, French Guiana (right). As you probably remember, this is the setting for the novel and movie ‘Papillion’. From 1852 until 1946 it was the home of the infamous French penal colony for dangerous or political prisoners. They stopped sending people here in 1938 and slowly phased it out over the next 8 years.

In 1895 French army captain Alfred Dreyfus, the colony’s most famous prisoner, was sent here after being convicted of espionage, even though he was totally innocent. It seems that being Jewish and in the French army was enough evidence to sustain the guilty verdict. A reporter investigated the crimes and in an open letter to the government in his newspaper he disclosed the corruption and bigotry that led to the unjust conviction and Dreyfus was set free. He was however a broken man by that time and died shortly thereafter.

The penal colony of Devil’s Island was actually made up of three separate islands, Ile du Diable (Devil’s Island), Ile Royale and Ile Ste-Joseph. There were 2,000 prisoners here, 500 each on Devil’s and St. Joseph and 1,000 on Royale. We actually landed on the largest of the three, Il Royale. The main settlement was here. The guard’s quarters, the largest cellblock and the solitary confinement building are all still standing but in various stages of repair. There’s a hotel operating here that uses the main administrative building and the guard’s houses for rooms. We stopped off there for a soda and to dodge a heavy tropic rainsquall that passed over.

Because the waters around the islands are so treacherous and shark infested, the prisoners on Devil’s and St. Joseph’s were often left unguarded. St. Joseph’s was used for more restrictive solitary confinement and burial of the prison wardens who died. The bodies of the prisoners were thrown into the sea to encourage the sharks to stay nearby.

The ship couldn’t dock here so we had to use the ship’s tenders to get ashore. From the tender pier it was about a mile hike to the top of the island where all the buildings are. There was a shorter route to the top but it was very steep and the gradual but longer way seemed better in the hot, humid weather. By the time I got to the top it looked like someone had dumped a bucket of water over my head. The road up was screened from any breeze by the island’s mountains. Once we got on top the breeze made things much more pleasant.

There is some wild life on the island. Agoutis, a sort of long legged guinea pig, Macaws (those large colorful parrots you see in all the parks in the USA, monkeys, peacocks, and of course chickens.

On the way up we passed the graveyard of the children that died on the island (above right). The guard’s families lived with them here and the graveyard, though fairly small, was a very melancholy place. The small graves were very nicely decorated and some could still be read. Most are not in good condition, which made the area even sadder.

After climbing the last bit of the hill we arrived at the lighthouse (above left) and the main cellblock (right). This building is still in good condition on the exterior. The interior has seen better days. Passing by the cellblock we came to the warder’s quarters. This was a nice row of duplex buildings with a palm-lined walkway through the center. It’s in great shape as these houses are in use by the hotel as rooms. Across a wide green was the church. Past here was the administrative building, now the restaurant, gift shop, bar and check in for the hotel. We got two sodas and headed out to the patio where we sat and had a great view of Ile du Diable as we rested up from the climb.

A very windy and wet tropical squall passed over while we were there and the temperature improved immensely. After the main storm was over we walked around looking at the buildings in the warm drizzle. We got wet (left) but it just made us feel cooler, which was a welcome relief. The animals were all eating mangos that had been knocked to the ground by the wind. The Agoutis looked pretty comical running on their long legs with mangos clenched in there teeth. Just behind the warder’s housing was the solitary and condemned cell building. Diana requested that I take her picture in one of the cells (right). I’m sure they were just as dismal and depressing when the prison was in use as they are now. Yikes!!

We walked back down the hill, stopping at the Commandant’s house, which is now a museum and gift shop. He had a great view over the harbor. After a short tender ride out to the ship we cleaned up, cooled off and got ready for dinner.

Dec 4 – Another great day at sea. The captain gave a presentation and had a question and answer session afterward. He’s a very personable fellow with a good sense of humor. He talked about the special navigational challenges the Amazon River presents. Getting in is tricky as there’s a bar of silt built up at the mouth that makes the water very shallow. The day was warm and we passed through several squalls. Mostly just a restful day. Even though we are a hundred miles out in the Atlantic the water here is brown from the run off of the Amazon Riv

To go to the next page of this voyage, click this link: http://r-d-am4.blogspot.com/2006/01/dec-5-to-dec-9-cruising-up-amazon-river.html

(c) Rodney N. Longenberger - 2005 All Rights Reserved